Ingredient library / GHK-Cu
Understanding GHK-Cu.
A copper peptide studied in skin and anti-aging research.
01
What is GHK-Cu?
GHK stands for glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine: three linked amino acids. With copper, it forms the GHK-Cu complex. In the INCI list, this ingredient is called Copper Tripeptide-1.
Why this ingredient?
Research examines how the peptide-copper complex interacts with biological systems. This includes matrix components in cell models and questions of delivery in topical formulations.
02
What the research examines.
The selected primary studies mainly provide insights into mechanisms and formulation. The available review also discusses human findings and limitations of the clinical evidence.
Human studies
The human data available in the project relate to other formulations and concentrations. A complete study report allowing independent assessment of the supplier data is not available for this presentation. We do not infer that a concentration of 1% is superior.
03
Putting evidence into context.
Cell models explain individual processes. On their own, they do not establish which visible changes a particular application produces in people. Concentration, formulation base and study duration must be considered when interpreting findings.
04 / NOCTE
The role in NOCTE.
In NOCTE, 1% GHK-Cu is at the centre of the water-based, fragrance-free formulation.
The scientific findings presented relate to GHK-Cu, or Copper Tripeptide-1, and the respective study conditions. NOCTE contains 1% GHK-Cu. Findings from ingredient studies do not automatically equate to clinically demonstrated results for the finished NOCTE formulation.
Discover NOCTE05
Studies & sources.
A peptide binds copper
Freedman et al. · Biochemistry · 1982
- What was studied?
- The structure of the GHK-copper complex in solution.
- What was observed?
- The study characterises copper binding within the peptide complex.
- Context
- A structural analysis, not a study of cosmetic efficacy.
Original source
Structure of the glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine-copper(II) complex in solution
Open sourceMatrix components in a cell model
Wegrowski, Maquart & Borel · Life Sciences · 1992
- What was studied?
- The production of certain matrix components in cultured human fibroblasts exposed to GHK-Cu.
- What was observed?
- Production of some sulfated glycosaminoglycans increased. No corresponding effect on hyaluronic acid synthesis was observed.
- Context
- At higher concentrations, the effect decreased. The study establishes neither firmer skin nor an effect on collagen.
Original source
Stimulation of sulfated glycosaminoglycan synthesis by the tripeptide-copper complex glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine-Cu2+
Open sourceFormulation & delivery
Badenhorst, Svirskis & Wu · Pharmaceutical Development and Technology · 2016
- What was studied?
- Solubility, distribution properties and stability as a basis for developing topical formulations.
- What was observed?
- The study describes physicochemical properties that need to be considered for dermal delivery.
- Context
- A formulation study, not a clinical anti-aging study or a basis for blanket rules about combining ingredients.
Original source
Physicochemical characterization of native glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine tripeptide for wound healing and anti-aging: a preformulation study for dermal delivery
Open sourceSkin aging & evidence
Mortazavi et al. · BioImpacts · 2025
- What was studied?
- An overview of GHK and its derivatives, skin penetration, formulation and skin aging.
- What was observed?
- The authors put experimental findings into context and discuss limitations of the clinical evidence.
- Context
- A review summarises other studies. It is not a clinical trial of NOCTE or a systematic review.
Original source
Topically applied GHK as an anti-wrinkle peptide: Advantages, problems and prospective
Open source